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Day 6: Valparaiso / Jun 26

High temperature: 62, low temperature: 36 Last summer, Dan and I met a Chilean architect doing a residency in Cleveland. We contacted him before our trip, and although he now lives in Vancouver, Canada, his sister lives in Vina del Mar, the next town up the coast from Valparaiso. The architect put us in touch […]


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Day 5: Valparaiso / Jun 25

High temperature: 63, cloudy; low: 34. Valparaiso is an automaton of a city, made up of clanking old ascensors (funiculars) and ancient ships and spindly Victorian houses. As if it could wind itself up and walk away at any moment. I liked Santiago fine, but this place has about 1oo times more character in one city […]


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Day 4: Los Andes / Jun 24

High temperature: 64, sunny. Low: 34. I was thinking today, during lunch, that we’re traveling in a pretty strange way. We’re in Chile in the winter, and we’re not seeing the things most people see when they come here. And I was feeling kind of funny about that for a minute. I caught myself even […]


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Day 3: Santiago / Jun 23

Suzanne Vega’s 1987 hit “Luka” is still big in Santiago. I’ve heard it twice in the past 36 hours. The first time was yesterday in a supermarket. OK, no big deal. But then the second time, today… coming out of a radio attached to a bicycle. The bicyclist guy was huffing and puffing up Cerro […]


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Day 2: Santiago / Jun 22

I’ve noticed that my sense of direction is out of whack here on the underside of the planet — not that it’s ever great. I think it must have something to do with the position of the sun in the sky. It’s in the east when it “should” be in the west, and vice versa. […]


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Day 1: Santiago / Jun 21

Dan and I arrived in Santiago around 9 a.m., and took a minibus to our apartment in Barrio Lastarria (45 minutes, about $10/person). A bonus: Turns out our landlord/host is gay himself. He runs a biotech startup and doesn’t smile much. The apartment is smaller than it looked in the online photos, but it’s cute […]


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