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Day 18: Very Rich Nuns / Jul 08

Today, sticking to my goal of enjoying a simple, relaxed couple of days in lovely Arequipa, I did exactly two activities: Toured a monastery and studied Spanish. Of course, the monastery I saw today, El Monasterio de Santa Catalina, happens to be one of the largest in the world, covering five acres and behaving for […]


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Day 17: Arequipa I Love You / Jul 07

Another travel-dominated day, one that would take me 1,600 miles from Santiago to Arequipa, Peru, where I’d begin the next chapter of my trip. My flight, operated by the Chilean airline Sky, hopscotched its way north, landing first in Antofagosta and then Arica, both cities in northern Chile surrounded by brown desert and mountains, before […]


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Day 16: Leaving the Island / Jul 06

This was entirely a travel day, so I don’t have much to say and almost no pictures to show. I spent the morning packing in my cabana, picking up my laundry, returning my rental bike, paying Dario. He hailed me a cab when it was time to go to the airport, and paid the driver […]


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Day 15: Mayor and Moai / Jul 05

Some mornings caffeine just hits me in a certain way, and I get all excited about something. This morning, it was the idea of writing an article, when I get back home, about the balance the island is trying to strike between tourism and conservation. Something like 65,000 tourists came here last year, up from […]


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Day 14: Trekking the North Coast / Jul 04

I spent the morning at the archaelogical museum, which recounts the history of the island in thorough detail through information boards (in Spanish and fairly decent English) and a few dozen artifacts. The most interesting of these are one of the few moai ever found to display female characteristics:


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Day 13: The Birdman Cult / Jul 03

This morning began with me indulging in another Type A, United Statesian fuss. Dario and I had agreed last night to explore the island together in his truck, and I knocked on his door a little after 8 to see if he was there. No answer — which didn’t surprise me, as he said he […]


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Day 12: Biking the Island / Jul 02

This was a pretty huge day. The island, small as it is, seems to call for huge days. I rose early and rented a bike in town, from Insular on the main street. I was impressed with how professionally this place was run, and ended up with a Cannondale bike for 24 hours, a helmet […]


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Day 11: Easter Island Arrival / Jul 01

The plane ride to Easter Island was uneventful, except that this was kind of crazy to see:


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Day 10: Back to Santiago (and Goodbye Dan) / Jun 30

Today was Dan’s last day in Chile, and the weather cooperated by being spectacular — clear and sunny all the way from Valpo back to Santiago. We had a leisurely morning at the Hostal, packing, lingering on our balcony and waiting for my clothes to dry. Then we made our way to Cafe Brighton, where […]


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Day 9: Up the Coast / Jun 29

High temp: 55, sunny/foggy; low: 39 We woke to thick fog, with the white opaque disc of the sun visible through it. But the weather forecast called for clear skies, and sure enough, by the time we were finished with breakfast, the day was sunny and warm.


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Day 8: Chilean Cooking and Puppets / Jun 28

High temp: 50, partly sunny; Low: 32 We had a leisurely start this morning. The hostal people felt guilty about all the problems we’ve been having with hot water, the Internet, and our door lock breaking (yeah), so they made us coffee and a simple breakfast. (They’re also supposed to do my laundry for me […]


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Day 7: Isla Negra / Jun 27

High temperature: 50, low: 40 Today we went to one of three houses that Chilean national hero Pablo Neruda maintained. Neruda is best known today as a poet, but he also had a day job — as a diplomat. In 1971, he won the Noble Prize. Busy guy.


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